Non-comedogenic cosmetics are products which have been tested on the oily skins of human volunteers. These products are less likely to cause blackheads (open comedones) or whiteheads (closed comedones) in patients. However, no single product is non-comedogenic for everyone.

For example, a person with very oily skin may still get skin breakouts from products that another person with mildly oily skin may find non-comedogenic. A better term may be non-acnegenic rather than non-comedogenic, but this is not so widely used. It is important to test a new product on your own skin rather than rely on the label, before using it freely.

Moisturizers:
There are moisturizers labeled oil-free which have a very thin consistency. Most people who are acne-prone or who have oily skin do not even need these products.

There are moisturizers labeled non-comedogenic which are usually thicker than the oil-free products, these may be suitable when the ambient humidity is dry. When the patient is exercising or if the air is hot and humid, these moisturizers may be comedogenic.

Cleansers:
There are some products, which are suitable for oily skin, most liquid cleansers are not as helpful for oily skin as bar soaps or synthetic detergents. Some deodorant soaps or cleansers may be helpful for oily skin. Care must be taken not to over dry the skin with a strong cleanser for fear that the skin will re-bound with extra oil. Often a good gentle face bar soap, such as Pure & Gentle glycerin beauty bar will be more likely to allow for satisfaction.

When the patient actually has acne and not just oily skin, many acne cleansers are available. Many other companies have cleansers made specifically for acne. There are benzoyl peroxide cleansers in the form of 5 and 10 % bar soaps and liquid cleansers, which are very effective in controlling acne breakouts.

Dishwashing is probably subject to more variables than any other household clean-up job. In theory at least, any detergent or soap can be used for hand dishwashing, except an automatic dishwasher detergent. However, soap has become almost extinct as a dishwashing product and many laundry detergents are not very acceptable. Laundry detergents, may leave spots and streaks, the powders may not completely dissolve, or may discolor certain metals with soaking. A light-duty liquid hand dishwashing detergent is the best choice.

LIQUID HAND DISHWASHING DETERGENTS

Regardless of brand, certain characteristics are important in a hand dishwashing liquid: lasting suds, effective cleaning performance, mildness to hands, safety for dishes and other washables, storage stability, pleasant fragrance and appearance, convenient packaging and dispensing. In formulating a product to meet these criteria, manufacturers, in general, use certain basic ingredients.

Ingredients
Surfactants or surface active agents are the primary ingredients in a liquid hand dishwashing detergent. Often a combination of surfactants is used to produce good grease cutting capability and soil suspension, mildness in water of varying degrees of hardness, and a high, stable suds level. All surfactants in these detergents are biodegradable.

Stability and Dispensing Aids are added to keep the product homogeneous under varying storage conditions, and to provide desirable dispensing characteristics. Alcohols, hydrotropes, and salts are often used.

Fragrance and Color Additives are what give a product its "personality," and are important, though present in extremely small amounts.

Mildness Additives may include moisturizing agents, certain oils and emollients, certain protein compounds, or other neutralizing or beneficial ingredients.

Preservatives are added, if needed, in small quantities to help prevent any microbiological growth in the product which could cause color or odor change, poor performance and separation of the ingredients.

Antibacterial Agents are sometimes added to provide antibacterial protection for the hands.

Performance Factors
Hand dishwashing liquids are relatively easy for consumers to compare. Users can experiment by trying various brands and deciding which product features are important to them ... performance, price, sudsing, fragrance and "feel," or perhaps the packaging. Usage is often based on the amount it takes to produce a rich, thick layer of suds.

Though detergents are not as affected by water hardness as soap is, some additional product may be necessary in very hard water. An important difference in the quantity of liquid hand dishwashing detergent required is the concentration of the surfactants vs. water in a product. More concentrated products are more efficient and may be more economical to use than the more dilute ones.

Grease removal is more effective in warm water than in cold water.

OTHER CLEANERS

See Household Cleaning Fact Sheet Notebook for information on metal cleaners and sink cleaners.

DISPOSAL OF HAND DISHWASHING DETERGENTS
Just as you exercise care in the manner in which you use and store other household cleaning products, you should properly dispose of empty dishwasher detergent containers or small amounts of leftover products by following some simple procedures.

• Get the most for your money - USE THE PRODUCT UP! If you find you cannot use all of the product you purchased, give it to a friend, but make sure the label with directions and precautions is still legible.
• Check the label for special instructions for disposal. Unused hand dishwashing detergents can be disposed down the drain. Many communities recycle the empty plastic containers. Check your local recycling guidelines and recycle containers when possible.
• Don't mix products when disposing of them.
• NEVER reuse an empty dishwashing detergent container for another purpose. The label instructions and precautions for one product may be dangerous to someone trying to use those instructions for a different product.

READ ALL LABELS THOROUGHLY AND USE PRODUCTS ONLY FOR INTENDED PURPOSES AND AS DIRECTED. 

Washing dishes by hand is a fairly simple process and results are very obvious. However, a routine and some organization help get the job done quickly and efficiently

EQUIPMENT AT THE SINK

Plastic Dishpan:
A square, round or rectangular dishpan is helpful when a double sink is not available. Choose a size that leaves part of a single sink accessible for scraping or prerinsing dishes. A dishpan can be emptied and refilled quickly with hot water and detergent as needed. It has a softer surface than a sink, and breakage is less likely.

Rubber Mat:
When washing directly in a sink, a mat helps cushion the bottom and reduces breakage.

Drain Rack:
Made of plastic-coated wire, formed plastic or, occasionally, wood, racks are almost essential for draining rinsed dishes. With a drain tray under the rack to catch rinse water, dishes can be rinsed right in the rack with extra-hot water from a spray hose, pitcher or pan. When there's a second sink large enough to hold a drain rack, no drain tray is necessary except perhaps for pans and other utensils. After a hot rinse, most dishes will air dry without wiping, saving a step. Cups, bowls, mugs and glasses need to be rinsed inside by immersion or under running water, then racked upside down for final rinsing.

Scrapers:
A flexible plastic or rubber scraper can be used to quickly remove loose food soils from plates, casseroles and pans. Careful scraping largely eliminates any prerinsing of dishes.

Scrubbers:
To remove crusty or hard residues, a wide variety of scrubbers is available. Plastic mesh, metal mesh, rough-surfaced sponges and cloths, steel wool soap pads and brushes all have their devotees.
   
Some plastic mesh and rough-textured sponges are gentle enough for scrubbing more delicate surfaces, such as nonstick pan finishes, shiny metals or china. Others are strictly heavy duty, and labels usually include cautions. Steel wool soap pads do an excellent job of removing discoloration and film from aluminum utensils, leaving them shiny.

Rubber Gloves:
Gloves are helpful for hands sensitive to hot water, to minimize fingernail damage when scrubbing, and to give a better grip when washing breakable pieces.

Dishcloths, Sponges, Dishmops:
These provide the basic washing action as each item is wiped clean with the detergent solution, all sides, inside and out. Each type has its advantages, but they all do the job.

Dishtowels: In addition to the traditional cotton towel, non-woven fiber cloths and even paper towels can be used to dry dishes, glassware, flatware and pans that are not air dried. Avoid a lint-shedding material.

Detergents and Special Cleaners: Liquid hand dishwashing detergents needed at the sink are described in "Hand Dishwashing Products."

GETTING ORGANIZED
Clear a space on the counter next to the sink to stock scraped and/or pre-rinsed dishes. Flatware can be soaked briefly in a detergent solution. If any pots, pans or bake-ware have been soaking in the sink during the meal, wash them first. Drain this soiled water away and use clean, hot water and detergent for the table service items and any remaining cookware.   

Dirty dishes can be stacked on trays, then moved to the sink area as space becomes available. In most kitchens, it's helpful to place the drain rack on the side of the sink that is nearer dish storage; stack dirty dishes on the opposite side.

Soaking
Wipe off any leftover food and grease from dishes and cookware using a rubber spatula or paper towels. Never pour grease down the drain; this can cause the drain to clog.
Soak dishes with greasy soils or stubborn baked-on or burned-on foods. To do this, add liquid hand dishwashing detergent or baking soda to the soiled utensils, then fill with hot water. If there are a number of items that need soaking, use a dishpan. Soak about 15 to 30 minutes or during the meal. Then drain the water and wash the dishes and cookware. Some automatic dishwasher detergents may be appropriate for soaking burned-on foods. Be sure to check the label first.

Washing, Rinsing, Drying
First fill the dishpan or sink with water as hot as can be comfortably used, and add enough detergent as the water is running to produce a thick, rich layer of suds. Read the label for the right amount. If rinsing in a separate sink or dishpan, fill it with very hot water.

Washing:
Using clean hot water and detergent, start with the lightly soiled items, generally glassware and flatware, followed by plates of various sizes, serving dishes, and finally any remaining cookware not previously washed. Change the dishwashing solution if it becomes greasy, too cool, or the suds disappear. Otherwise, film and soil will not be completely removed.
   
Handle kitchen knives carefully by their handles; don't pile them into the sink or dishpan, but wash them one by one and rack them with handles up.
   
There are several ways to wash dishes. Some people prefer to lift each piece out of the suds to wipe it with cloth or sponge, others like to keep dishes beneath the suds surface so soil floats away. Some stack dishes in the sink or dishpan, others like to take each piece from the counter, wash it and take another.

Rinsing:
The hotter the rinse water, the faster dishes will air dry. After racking dishes, pour or spray hot water over them if they haven't been dipped in a rinsing sink or pan. Rinse inside cups, bowls and glassware.

Drying:
Air drying is easier than towel drying, and may be more sanitary than drying with a soiled towel. However, wiping with a clean towel is particularly useful when glassware or flatware is spotted or filmed. Buffing silverware with a soft, clean, lint-free cloth actually improves its patina. Paper towels are handy for wiping pots and pans, especially any that may leave traces of grease or discoloration on a cloth towel.

Special Tips for Hand Dishwashing

• When scraping dishes, put food scraps into a plastic bag, garbage disposal, in the sink or directly into a kitchen waste can lined with a bag. Very wet garbage can be drained first in a colander set in the sink, then discarded into a garbage can. Use an empty food can to collect excess grease, pan drippings, or any kind of wet waste.
• Do not soak cast iron utensils. To retain their "seasoning" and discourage rusting, wash in hot water using a sponge or cloth. Scour stubborn stains with a steel wool soap pad rather than soaking in detergent which removes the built-up fat that seasons the utensil. Rub vegetable oil on any scoured areas to reseason. Dry pans briefly over heat on the range to prevent rusting from moisture.
• Do not soak aluminum utensils for excessive periods of time, as exposure to water can cause aluminum to darken .
• Change the dishwashing solution and rinse water when they cool down or before they become noticeably greasy.
• Clean greasy pan bottoms as well as the insides. If a grease film remains, the bottom will blacken when the pan is used again.
• Nonstick finishes on pans need a thorough cleaning to retain nonstick performance. Use a plastic mesh scouring pad designed for cleaning nonstick surfaces or a "light duty" plastic-coated sponge, or sprinkle baking soda on the bottom of the pan. Use plenty of hot water and detergent to remove any greasy film.
• Oven-glass casseroles and dishes can show cloudy areas even when clean. This is usually a food film of protein origin (milk, cheese, egg, meat juice). Rubbing with a sponge or cloth and white vinegar will usually remove the film.
• When there is illness in a family, such as colds, flu or a communicable disease, doctors often recommend a degree of isolation and use of disposable eating utensils. While careful dishpan practices can help home sanitation, and clean dishes are seldom the carriers of disease organisms, do follow doctor's advice. A 5-minute soak (after washing) in a solution of 1 tablespoon (15 ml) liquid household (sodium hypochlorite) bleach to 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water should kill household germs. This method is not recommended for silver flatware which may tarnish.

CAUTION: Because of the variety of ingredients in hand dishwashing detergents, check with the detergent manufacturer before mixing sodium hypochlorite bleach and hand dishwashing detergents. Some formulations contain ingredients that are incompatible with the bleach and hazardous gases may be released.

ENERGY MANAGEMENT IN HAND DISHWASHING
Apart from the human energy required to wash dishes and utensils, the major use of fuel is to heat water for washing. Individual habits of water usage vary greatly. However, higher usage and/or shortages of incoming cold water supply are important factors in encouraging efficient use for all household purposes. Of all the uses, dishwashing is one where no compromise in cleanliness is acceptable. Hot water is an essential for both hand and machine dishwashing.

Savings in Hand Dishwashing
Estimates of hot water usage for hand dishwashing range from 9-24 gallons (34.2-91.2 L) per meal, part of which is cold water. This wide range indicates not only household variations, but differing procedures.

Undoubtedly, water temperatures vary greatly. Washing dishes, and particularly greasy utensils, in water less than 90° F (33° C), even with sufficient detergent, is likely to leave a greasy film. The hottest water most people's hands can tolerate is about 110° F (43.30° C). Keeping dishwashing water as close to these upper limits as possible will provide good results. The suggestion then is to conserve by reducing water quantity rather than temperature.

Some Sensible Ways to Conserve Energy

• Presoak especially difficult cooked-on soils.
• Scrape away food residues and heavy grease.
• Wash lightly soiled items first and more heavily soiled item later. Change the washing solution when it cools down or becomes greasy or dirty.
• Wash in a sink or dishpan of hot suds, rather than under running water, even for a few dishes.
• Rinse by dipping each item in a pan of hot water, or by racking dishes and spray-rinsing. Avoid running hot water continuously for rinsing.
• Accumulate dishes, rather than running hot water for a few items. Soaking will soften food soils.

Hand Dishwashing Problems, Causes and Solutions 

Automatic dishwashers represent a tremendous saving in time and effort; they minimize breakage through reduced handling of dishes; they help keep the kitchen neater and more clutter-free; and cleanup after entertaining is simplified. These are benefits that have much appeal to consumers.

Automatic dishwashing is superior to hand dishwashing in other ways. One of the most important of these is the manner in which it sanitizes dishes. A study by the University of Louisville School of Medicine pointed out that the average bacteria count for all machine-washed dishes in their study was less than 1 per plate, while the bacteria count on dishes washed by hand during the same test averaged 390 per plate. Bearing in mind that bacteria are ubiquitous ^_ ever present on our hands, on working surfaces, on dishcloths, sponges, dishtowels and the like ^_ it is not surprising that some of the hand-washed dishes in this study had a bacteria count as high as 16,000. All of the machine washed dishes easily met the public health standard of 100 bacteria or less per plate, a level recognized by health authorities as safe and attainable.

In order to ensure that public health standards are maintained, hospitals and many other food service institutions are required by law to clean dishes by automatic dishwashing methods.

The benefits of an automatic dishwasher and specially formulated Pure & Gentle Crystal Clear can only be realized if they are used correctly. It is, therefore, important for the user to understand how the dishwasher works, the purpose of its features and how to load and operate it properly. User's manuals and Crystal Clear Labeling contain this information.

The Dishwasher
The function of the dishwasher is to provide the mechanical action necessary to distribute and direct the Crystal Clear solution and rinse waters over, under and around the dishes to loosen and remove soil. The dishwasher must also remove soil-laden waters from the machine after each phase of the cycle and provide for the drying of dishes after the cleaning process has been completed.

Washing Systems
Automatic dishwashers vary in the design of their washing systems (or the means by which water is distributed). Some have a single water source, others may have several water sources. Water is distributed in dishwashers by spray arms or spray towers (or in the case of some older models by an impeller). The design of the spray arms or towers may differ in size, shape and placement in the dishwasher, or in the number, size and location of their water ports (holes through which water is forced). All of the washing systems do a good job, but those with fewer water sources require greater care in loading the dishes to prevent blocking the washing action to various parts of the machine, especially the corners. 

The Water
The role of water is to dissolve and carry Crystal Clear, wet and loosen soil and effectively rinse the soil away. Soften water is more effective at accomplishing this.

The velocity with which water is distributed in the dishwasher provides the scrubbing action to loosen and remove soil.

Amount
Cleaning in a dishwasher is accomplished with a relatively small volume of water. Contrary to what some people think, the dishwasher does not fill completely as does a clothes washer. The dishwasher, instead, employs several small fills during a cycle to accomplish the washing and rinsing operations. The total volume of water used in a complete cycle can vary from 6 - 10 gallons, depending on the number of washes and rinses included in that particular cycle.

Water pressure in a home may be noticeably reduced at some times because of numerous household water demands. As a result, insufficient water in the dishwasher could occur. This can be avoided by keeping bathing, laundering and other activities requiring quantities of water to a minimum while the machine is in use.

Temperature
The temperature of the water is an important factor in dissolving detergent, removing food soils and drying dishes properly. To do these things most effectively, the water temperature at the dishwasher should not be lower than 130 degrees F (54.4 degrees C). As temperature is reduced, the removal of greasy and oily soils becomes more difficult; spotting and filming on dishes may occur as well as improper drying.

Hardness
The amount of hardness minerals and other dissolved solids in water present obstacles to good automatic dishwashing results. Hardness minerals can cause spotting and filming on dishware. They must be effectively tied up or sequestered if the results are to be satisfactory. Hardness of water is determined by the amount of calcium and magnesium in the water. It varies from locality to locality and season to season. Water hardness is expressed in grains per gallon (gpg), parts per million (ppm) or milligrams per liter (mg/L)

To find out the water hardness in your area, call your local water dealer, the local water company, public utility consumer service department or the home economist at the Cooperative Extension Service office. 

The Detergent
Automatic dishwashers require soaps with very special characteristics because of the conditions under which the soap must work. One of its essential characteristics is that it must produce little or no suds or foam because too much foam can inhibit the washing action. Other important functions that a dishwasher soap should perform are the following:

• Make water wetter (reduce surface tension) to penetrate and loosen soil.
• Tie up water hardness minerals to permit the detergent to do its cleaning job.
• Emulsify greasy or oily soil.
• Suppress foam caused by protein soils such as egg and milk.
• Help water to sheet off surfaces of dishes, thus minimizing water spots.
• Protect china patterns and metals from the corrosive effects of heat and water alone.

Ingredients
To accomplish these functions, the following ingredients may be included depending on the formulation and product form:
SURFACTANT (nonionic) ^_ lowers the surface tension of water so that it will more quickly wet out the surfaces and the soils. Lowering the surface tension makes the water sheet off dishes and not dry in spots. The surfactant also helps remove and emulsify fatty soils like butter and cooking fat. Nonionic surfactants are used because they have the lowest sudsing characteristics.
 CORROSION INHIBITOR (sodium silicate) ^_ helps protect machine parts, prevent the removal of china patterns and the corrosion of metals such as aluminum.
CHLORINE COMPOUND ^_ aids in sanitizing, helps make protein soils like egg and milk soluble, aids in removing such stains as coffee or tea and lessens spotting of glassware.
SPECIAL ADDITIVES (sodium aluminate, boric oxide, , etc.) ^_ may be used to inhibit overglaze and pattern removal from fine china.
ADDITIONAL ALKALIS (sodium carbonate,) ^_ may be used to aid in handling greasy food soils.
PERFUME ^_ covers the chemical odor of the base product and stale food odors which might otherwise emanate from the dishwasher.
PROCESSING AIDS ^_ generally inert materials that allow the active ingredients to be combined into a usable form.

A Specially Formulated Product
There are no substitutes for an automatic dishwasher soap such as Crystal Clear. Only an automatic dishwasher soap can be used in an automatic dishwasher. These products come in either powder or gel form. All other types of detergents or soaps produce too much suds and will smother the water action necessary for cleaning in the dishwasher. Furthermore, enough suds might be generated to cause a dishwasher to overflow. This could necessitate a service call and could be damaging to the dishwasher and the floor around it. No other type of cleaning product such as baking soda, borax, vinegar or hand dishwashing liquid can be substituted for an automatic dishwasher detergent. These other materials will not perform well and may be damaging to the items being washed or to the dishwasher itself.

Amount
Enough Crystal Clear must be used to soften the water effectively, suppress foam from food soils, provide the necessary cleaning and suspension of soil and protect materials being washed. Underuse will result in poor cleaning, redeposition of soil, spotting, filming and possibly damage to some items being washed. Both the dishwasher instruction booklet and Crystal Clear provide guidelines for proper usage. A good general rule is to fill the detergent dispenser cup or cups to the level recommended by the dishwasher manufacturer.

It should be remembered that water hardness in any area may vary from season to season and that more detergent may be needed at some times than is needed at other times.

Note: If you are using a water conditioner, only one teaspoon of Crystal Clear is required.

 
Storage
Store these products in a cool, dry place. Storage under the sink is not advisable because this area is generally too warm and moist to keep the pro